Skin Smart Beauty Blog

DO HOT YOGA.

Want your skin to look the way it did when you were 12? (ie plump, smooth, moist, healthy)….

Take up hot yoga. I’m becoming addicted to it myself and the positive effects that it has on my SKIN (not to mention my mood and my body) are like nothing I’ve ever seen on myself.

I won’t lie, I was pretty intimidated going into my first hot yoga class; I’m definitely a beginner. I had anxiety and visions that I’d faint or puke on somebody, or that I just wouldn’t be able to hold poses in a room that’s heated to 40 degrees C for an hour and 15 minutes. Turns out I’m a pretty tough chick (and more fit than I originally thought YESSSSSSSS).

I can honestly say that I’ve NEVER, ever sweat so profusely in my life. 

Just some tips for anyone considering starting hot yoga:

a) Do not wear any type of makeup (duh) or even moisturizer whatsoever! I go with a completely bare ass face (feels so good) and inevitably, sweat drips into my eyes. I can’t imagine what it would feel like if I was sweating mascara and shit into there. Just don’t. Plus you’ll probably cause an acne flare up if you do.

b) Wear the least amount of clothing possible. Seriously, cropped yoga pants/shorts and a sports bra is all I can handle in there. If you’re shy you will appreciate the (very) dim lights. I must say, however, that there’s just something about practicing yoga that makes you more accepting, and even proud of your body. At least that has been my experience thus far. So amazing.

c) Don’t eat anything too heavy 1 1/2 - 2 hrs before going. I can’t imagine it would be a very comfortable feeling.

d) Hair: out of face, in a bun. 

e) Water, water, water.

and

f) Water.

Your skin is a huge indicator of what is going on inside your body, and all skin conditions, from eczema to acne to aging, are the manifestations of what your body is needing on the inside, including nutrients. 

Dry or oily skin, acne, and inflammation  all are signs of poor internal health which are often brought on by consuming garbage food and avoiding skin-healthy nurtients.

While a suitable skincare routine and occasional in-clinic treatments are also an essential piece of the healthy-skin puzzle, you should be aware of the level of nourishment that’s being provided to you from within. If you have been experiencing frustrating skin issues that no product seems to fix,consider implementing the following vitamins and minerals into your daily diet, because after all, you are what you eat. I believe this whole-heartedly.

Silica:

Silica is a mineral that strengthens the body’s connective tissues - muscles, tendons, hair, ligaments, nails, cartilage, and bone - and is vital for healthy skin. Silica deficiency can result in reduced skin elasticity and can impede the body’s ability to heal wounds.

Food sources of silica: 

• leeks
• green beans
• garbanzo beans/chick peas
• strawberries
• cucumber
• mango
• celery
• asparagus
• rhubarb. 

Zinc:

The mineral zinc is an important component of healthy skin, especially for acne sufferers. In fact, acne itself may be a symptom of zinc deficiency. Zinc helps control the production of oil in the skin, and may also help control some of the hormones that contribute to acne. Zinc is also needed for proper immune system function, as well as for the maintenance of vision, taste, and smell. Zinc consumption is also strongly linked to a reduction of prostate cancer. ;-)

Foods rich in zinc:

• fresh oysters
• pumpkin seeds
• ginger
• pecans
• Brazilnuts
• oats
• eggs

Omega-3 Fatty Acids: (this one’s a biggie)

Dry, inflamed skin or skin that suffers from the frequent whiteheads or blackheads can benefit from supplementing with essential fatty-acids (EFAs), especially omega-3s. EFAs are responsible for skin repair, moisture content, and overall flexibility, but because the body cannot produce its own EFAs, they must be obtained through the diet.

The typical western diet is overabundant in omega-6 fatty acids found in baked goods and grains, and lacking in omega-3s, found in cold-water fish such as salmon and mackerel, as well as flaxseeds and safflower oil. Balancing your intake of omega-3s with omega-6s can result in smoother, more supple and younger-looking skin. EFAs are also available in supplement form (my personal go-to) - such as fish oil capsules or evening primrose oil - and are effective at treating a wide range of disorders, from depression and cancer to arthritis and heart disease.

Good sources of omega 3 oils:

•  chia seeds
• flax seeds
• wild-harvested fish oils

Selenium:

Selenium is an antioxidant mineral responsible for tissue elasticity. It also acts to prevent cell damage by free radicals and plays a role in preventing skin cancer as it can protect the skin from UV damage.

Dietary sources of selenium:

• wheat germ
• seafood such as tuna and salmon
• garlic
• Brazilnuts
• eggs
• brown rice
•  whole-wheat bread

Brazil nuts are apparently the best source, and popping back just 3-4 Brazil nuts a day gives and adequate supply of selenium for the average adult. 

Vitamins C, E and A:

Vitamin C. Ohhhhhh how I love my Vitamin C. Highly effective at reducing free radical damage, such as that caused by overexposure to the sun or pollution. Free radicals are like the pac man eaters of collagen and elastin - the fibers that support skin structure - and can cause wrinkles, laxity/sagging and other signs of premature aging. Vitamin C is especially effective at protecting the skin from overexposure to the sun when combined with vitamin E.

Foods high in vitamin C:

• red and green bell peppers
• guava
• kale
• parsley
• collard greens
• turnips
•  broccoli.

…and of course oranges, grapefruits and all other citrus fruits.

In terms of topical applications of vitamin C for your skin, there’s nothing on the market that even comes close to a product called Obagi Professional C Serum (15-20%) which I’ve raved about in an earlier posting. I’ve also found another AMAZING, slighly less-expensive C serum by DCL called C-scape 25.

                                    

Vitamin E is another powerful antioxidant that reduces the effects of sun exposure on the skin. When it’s combined with vitamin A, vitamin E is especially effective at preventing certain skin cancers. Vitamin E, when applied topically, soothes dry or rough skin.

Food sources of vitamin E:

• wheatgerm oil
• sunflower seeds
• safflower and sunflower oils
• almonds
• spinach
• peaches
• prunes
• tomatoes
• cabbage
• asparagus
• avocados

Vitamin A promotes proper repair and maintenance of the skin, and deficiencies of it can result in a dry, flaky complexion. Topical vitamin A treatments are usually used to treat acne, poor texture, pore congestion and discoloration/sun damage.

Foods high in vitamin A

• liver
• chili peppers
• dandelion
• carrots
• apricots
• collard greens
• kale
• sweet potatoes
• spinach
• cantaloupe

It’s better to consume vitamin A from food sources rather than supplementing it, as vitamin A can be harmful if taken in excessive amounts in supplement form. You could also take beta carotene, which is a precursor to vitamin A but has none of the overdose concerns of vitamin A.

                                            AKA ’Facial Milia’

Facial milia are tiny, white cysts embedded in the skin, which usually form on the upper  cheeks and around the eyes and lips. 

They can occur at any age, and the exact cause is unknown, but heavy use of makeup or skin-care products, and sun damage are thought to play a role.

Milia form when the skin traps dead skin cells instead of exfoliating them. Milia can be removed professionally by a skin specialist, however, there are steps you can take at home to treat and prevent these annoying little bumps.

Milia can resolve on their own with time as they make their way to your skin’s surface. Regular exfoliation at home can accelerate this process. Below are daily skin care instructions for people with milia, as well as examples of products that can be used to treat and prevent milia.

Cleanser

Wash your face in the morning and before bed with a gentle, soap-free, non-comedogenic exfoliating cleanser, such as Medique AHA/BHA Cleanser. 

Glycolic acid dissolves dead skin cells and allows new, healthy cells to grow. Regular use of a gentle glycolic acid cleanser will help bring the milia to the surface. As your skin will be continually sloughing dead skin cells and forming new, healthy cells, further milia also will be less likely to form. 

Sun Protection

Limit sun exposure and wear an oil-free sun screen when outside. 2 of my favs for oil-free SPF are:

                                         Neutrogena Oil-Free Spf 35 

                                    and Peter Thomas Roth Oil-Free SPF 30:

Exfoliate (gently)

Use a gentle exfoliating product once or twice a week. The best example is the rice-based Daily Microfoliant by Dermalogica. This will work in conjunction with your cleanser to keep dead cells sloughing. Do not use exfoliating products around the eyes; cheeks and lips only.

Milia around the eyes is best treated with a gentle but potent dose of retinol in an eye cream. Hands-down winner being: Zo Intensive Eye Cream (0.5% retinol).

Home Glycolic Acid Peel

Try a glycolic acid peel at home like DCL 20% Glycolic Acid Pads: (amazing)

This will further exfoliate the skin. Your goal is to gently and continually exfoliate the skin so that the milia will surface and dissolve. Do not use both an exfoliating product and a glycolic acid peel treatment ‘cause it’ll irritate your skin.

 If milia does not improve after a few weeks of proper at-home care, (or if you want them gone NOW!) consult a skin specialist or a dermatologist who can perform professional microdermabrasion, stronger glycolic acid peels, or needle extraction. (I personally perform and am licensed and experienced in all 3 of the above treatments. Plus I absolutely LOVE extractions and I do them safely @ Dermal Laser Clinic in Vancouver, BC)

Exfoliation must be maintained. If you suddenly stop exfoliating your skin, dead cells can build up rapidly and cause more milia. 

“Soften dem lips”

Go out and buy a toothbrush for your lips. 

Then, 2-3x/wk, put some vaseline on ‘em and brush them.

Afterwards, make sure to nourish and re-hydrate with a good quality balm (vaseline won’t do it).

                                        My fav is Skoah’s Lip Dip:

                                  Now go and make out with somebody.

                                    What is eczema?

Eczema is a general term for skin inflammation that can affect people of any age, race or sex. It’s characterized by itchy, red flaky patches that can be present anywhere on the body. The more you scratch, the more the rash will worsen.

People with eczema often have a family history of the condition or a family history of other allergic conditions, such asthma or hay fever.  

Eczema isn’t contagious, but since it’s believed to be at least partially inherited, it’s not uncommon to find members of the same family affected.

What are the causes of eczema?

Doctors still do not know the exact cause of eczema,  but a defect of the skin that impairs its function as a protective barrier, possibly combined with an abnormal function of the immune system, are thought to be factors. 

Some forms of eczema can be triggered by substances that come in contact with the skin, such as soaps, cosmetics, clothing, detergents, jewelry, or sweat. Environmental allergens (substances that cause allergic reactions) may also cause outbreaks of eczema. Changes in temperature or humidity, or even psychological stress, can lead to outbreaks of eczema in some people. The change of seasons is associated with decreased humidity in the air. Winter air tends to be drier than summer air. Dry enviroments, whether natural or artificial (think indoor heaters/AC) zap moisture out of the skin.

Eczema-Free Lesson Plan:

Lesson #1 

Avoid hot showers which dry out the skin; choose luke-warm water instead.

Lesson #2 
Use a gentle, moisturizing, fragrance-free soap such as Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser.

This can be found at any drugstore and will not strip the skin of its natural moisture. It’s less drying and less irritating for already itchy and inflamed skin. If you are a woman (or a man!) who wears foundation everyday, this will NOT remove it. For makeup removal on sensitive eczema-prone skin I’d recommend Dermalogica Essential Cleansing Solution (I loooove this stuff).

Lesson #3 
Avoid bubble baths and anti-bacterial soaps. They will dry out skin even further.

*as a side-note antibacterial soaps are unnecessary and are no more effective than a thorough washing with a regular, non-anti-bac soap. The ingredient Triclosan (which is what’s in all of these anti-bac soaps/cleansers) is ruining our bodies and our planet. 

Lesson #4 
Follow the three-minute rule. Moisturize within three minutes of bathing or showering. Use fragrance-free moisturizing creams or ointments because they are thicker than lotions and will stay on the skin longer and provide a better barrier against eczema-triggering factors. I love Eucerin Original Moisturizing Cream:

                                  or even better: Dermalogica Barrier Repair.    

Lesson #5
Avoid irritating clothing. Instead of wool, stick with cotton.

Extra credit 
If all of these lessons are followed and you’re still flaring-up, see a doctor about prescribing medication. The good news is that today there are more eczema treatments available then ever before.

Until recently, steroid creams applied to the skin were the only available topical treatment. While still considered the treatment standard for eczema, these creams can have side effects like thinning of the skin, stretch marks, easy bruising and an increased risk of infection. These side effects are even more common when used in high potency formulations for an extended period of time.

Today, two new non-steroid treatments, Elidel and Protopic, work by producing anti-inflammatory effects on the skin without interfering with the immune system.

One last tip:

Avoid extra ingredients in your skin products even if they are ‘all-natural’. More is not better when it comes to skin treatments that soothe eczema. Better is plain.

                                       SPF 15 is a waste of time. 

Yeah, yeah ,yeah. sunscreen shmun-screen. (say that 10 times) 

For those of you who don’t tan year round, who are the same people who value their precious skin and the same people who are less-likely to develop UV-induced cancers later in life, who are ALSO the same people who will not look like a beat leather handbag when they’re 38, I hope that you find this advice helpful.

Fact: There is no difference in the amount of protection that one is receiving from an SPF 8 to an SPF 80. That is a prevelant misconception among people.

Having said that, there IS a difference between what’s labeled “broad-spectrum” protection and non. Broad-spectrum means UVA and UVB filters which gives full and complete shielding. That MAC foundation of yours with the built-in SPF? Non-broad-spectrum. Very deceiving and in my opinion, dangerous because people are so often misled into feeling a sense of protection with all of these built-in SPFs. You need a seperate SPF moisturizer underneath your makeup. (And no, an SPF 15 in your moisturizer + an SPF 15 in your makeup does not equal an SPF 30. It equals a 15 with a now sticky thick layer.)

Going back to actual difference in protection from say a broad-spectrum 8 to an 80, that’s right, there is none. You know how we’re always being told “You must reapply!” Well, that’s because the average person uses only a sun protection factor of 15 which means that they are only getting a little over 1 hour of UV shielding. After that hour has passed you are back to being without any protection which is when you should be reapplying. This is why I say “SPF 15 is a waste of time”. Most people, especially women wearing makeup do not bother to slap on another coat.

On the other hand, if someone applied a good broad-spectrum SPF 50 before heading out into the sun then that window of protection is of course much longer. Personally, any longer than like 7-8 hours baking and I’m sun-drunk and exhausted but that’s just me.

Higher SPF #s do not mean stronger protection; they mean longer protection.

Tan responsibly!

If I ever win the lottery I will be buying my very own Morrocan Oil factory complete with little Morroccan Oil workers who will deliver this stuff by crates to my bathroom so that not only can I use it on my hair everytime I wash it but also so that I may BATHE in it, and then after I bathe in it that I may moisturize my body head to toe with it and then gift it to every single female/gay guy that I ever meet.

Yes, this oil was originally intended for the use on dry, damaged, frizzy and processed hair (the best heat-protectant I’ve ever used and imparts glorious shine) but it is to DIE for as a luxurious body moisturizer. The scent….ooohhh the scent.

GAWD do I love this stuff. Expensive? Hell yes it is. Would I choose replenshing my inventory over a couple of nice dinners out with the hubs? Sorry babe…but DAMN I smell good. :)